Repairing my broken Genelec 2029aL monitor loudspeaker

The left speaker from my set of 2029 monitors (the digital version of the 1029) stopped turning on last week.
Service said that, although there are internal fuses, it was most likely to be the transformer.
Repair was quoted at around £150, or £40ish to send me the replacement transformer.

Today I opened it up for the first time and took some photos - it's always interesting looking inside things like this. Thought I'd share and see if anyone had anything to add:

Used a T20 torx bit to take off the four screws at the rear.
A 5mm Alan key fits the other two screws, but they're just to hold the drivers in and are not structural per se.
Image
Image
Image

The back pops off easily. Nice thin-bead gasket around the join.
Image
Without the Allan bolts, the drivers fall away from the grilles, which is a bit of a surprise.
Image

There's one of the internal fuses.
Image

Oh look!
Image

That fuse is black! This is part of the problem! I know fuses don't usually blow without good reason, but I've ordered a replacement from ebay for a few quid in case the fuse failed. The worst that can happen is that it blows again.
Image

A photo of the connector.
Image

The big toroid. Not sure how to test if this is faulty or not. Can't see any burn marks.
Image

The fuse that blew was F3 which, from the location, looks like it feeds the toroid transformer.
Image

Toroid detail.
Image

Rear of tweeter.
Image

Tweeter. Looks like a bucking ferrite design.
Image

Woofer. Was pretty dusty after 10 years so gave it a clean.
Image

Rear of the woofer, where the Allan bolt holds it in place.
Image

Driver looks like paper with some kind of doping on the front.
Image
Image

Hope someone finds this interesting!

Update:
Ordered a replacement toroid from Genelec (HHB, actually) for around £40.
Image
When it arrived, I was able to check the continuity of the new toroid's connector versus the old toroid.
The new toroid had the below pattern of continuity:
Image
Conversely, on my old toroid, pins 2, 3, 5 and 6 were all common: A clear sign that there was a short circuit somewhere inside the transformer.
The replacement transformer kit also came with a nice set of instructions, copied below: Image

Having re-assembled my loudspeaker I can confirm that it now works very well. I've tested it with a 70Hz sine tone and can hear no leaking noises from the seam.